How To Change The Transmission Fluid And Filter On A 2005 Cooper Mini Cvt Transmission
1st Gen "How To" half-dozen-Speed Automatic Transmission Fluid Alter
-
Mini Cooper half-dozen-Speed Automatic
Transmission Fluid Replacement How-To
Written and compiled past fishbone
Final revised iii/21/12
Background InformationBased on user feedback, I accept decided to compile my own write-up notes along with user contributions that I hope overall volition be a comprehensive guide to help you lot you change the automatic manual fluid.
If your Mini'south half dozen-speed automatic transmission is shifting poorly, STOP! Do non replace it just yet! Read on to notice out why!
The original discussion which started this guide can be establish on the North American Motoring forums here: http://world wide web.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/drivetrain-cooper-south/178242-mcsa-tranny-fluid-change.html Or by going to the 1st Generation MINIs department, nether Modifications, Drivetrain (Cooper S) and looking for the thread chosen MCSA Tranny Fluid Change.
Special thank you to everyone from the community who has contributed to the effort of sharing their knowledge in the promise that we can continue on motoring!
I realize this is a LOT of text. Don't be discouraged! If y'all are competent enough to change your own oil, with some actress care and patience this fluid change is a task that you should be able to tackle without any problems. Read on!
Important Information
**There is absolutely no warranty, implied or otherwise, that comes with this guide. The concluding responsibility always rests with you, the vehicle owner.**
This guide is primarily aimed at 2002-2006 Mini Cooper Due south models equipped with the Aisin-Warner TF60-SN 6-speed transmission. Other models are equiped with dissimilar models of the same manufacturer with small changes. Based on the repair diagrams that I have consulted on www.realoem.com and information I was able to obtain from various manual parts vendors, the transmission housing and location of the drain bolt and fill bolt seem to be either identical or very close.
Delight consult RealOEM and ostend your Mini model uses the aforementioned manufacturer'due south transmission to confirm the location of the parts outlined in the procedure below are appropriate before you start any work.
Should you lot modify your manual fluid?
Permit's start with MINI's "lifetime fluid". There is NO such matter as lifetime fluid! Sooner or later whatsoever fluid breaks down. Mini does not ascertain what lifetime ways and no dealer will be crazy enough to put information technology in writing. Therefore, lifetime means the usable life of the transmission, which ways until the warranty is up. So unless you desire to treat your transmission equally a disposable expensive role, at ane point or another yous should be replacing the fluid.
The factory is a JWS-3309 blazon which is nothing fancy; it is a not-synthetic fluid. Whatever aftermarket multivehicle universal synthetic transmission fluid will work only fine as long as it meets the JWS-3309 spec. The fluid appears to be the same as the Toyota T-IV, so if you see that spec equally well you should besides be OK. For more prove on this, read the lesser department of this guide. Since the fluid change is and so involved and anything Only direct-forrard, information technology pays in the long run to spend the coin on peak of the line synthetics that can last a while, such as Amsoil. Almost will last 50K miles under severe driving or 100K normal driving. It makes no sense to replace non-synthetic with not-synthetic which will need replacing within 40K miles.
The manual cannot be flushed like a traditional automated considering it has no forepart external cooler; information technology uses a rut exchanger. This is one of the primary reasons most shops will decline to service it. There is no dipstick to measure the ATF or make full through it either. There is NO transmission filter to be replaced, there is just an internal strainer which is non accessible unless you drop the pan, which you should take no reason to do so.
Here is a picture of the pan to get a better idea. The moving picture is oriented as if you were looking at the car from the front.
Here is a close-upwardly picture of the make full bolt used to pour transmission fluid into the transmission.
Y'all will exist doing this bleed and fill process a full of at to the lowest degree 3 times if y'all desire to replace almost (virtually 70%) of the fluid. If you lot want to put more fresh fluid, exercise additional drain/fills.
There is a total of 6 quarts and you volition only be able to bleed out almost ii.v quarts at a fourth dimension. Best thing to practise is bulldoze the car for a chip betwixt bleed/fills to get a good mix going.
Will this prepare my manual?
Keep in mind this is intended to be primarily a maintenance/preventive process. If your manual has suffered damage due to neglect (yeah, not irresolute the fluid is fail, despite what Mini claims), then no amount of fluid changes volition fix it. If your transmission is shifting strangely (slamming gears, slipping), there is a very expert possibility all it needs is some fresh fluid to get back to normal operating status. The transmission needs a few drive cycles to re-adapt the shifting blueprint and beliefs to the new fluid. Give it time. One user reported information technology took several drain/fills and driving over a catamenia of several thousand miles to get a transmission that had many miles on the original fluid to perform in a normal style once more. It generally should not take this long.
In my own experience, afterward the initial few drain and fills, the manual seemed to shift excessively smooth, to the indicate that it felt like it was slipping/riding the gears. Later a few bulldoze cycles it adapted and settled into a shifting pattern that was even better than brand new.
If you want to skip this re-learning process altogether, your dealer may be able to reset the Transmission Command Module. Whatsoever claims that yous can exercise this by yourself past disconnecting the battery are completely incorrect. The ONLY manner to reset the TCU is by using the Mini dealership OBD tool.
Tools needed:
-Socket extensions
-Allen 5 key
-T-55 torx
-Philips head
-Flathead screwdriver
-Funnel
-Shallow drain pan (preferably with measures on the sides for fluid)
-RagsHere is a picture of the funnel that works perfect. Plant at Walmart, it was ideal considering information technology was very tight confronting the make full plug and has the right height. If in that location is Whatsoever room around the make full bolt, you lot volition get ATF to seep out instead of go in the tranny and you lot will brand a mess. The funnel is chosen Spill Saver by FloTool.
Manual fluid alter process Step one: Raise your car on stands or a ramp as if you were to drain the oil. The best affair to do is jack up the passenger side every bit far higher than the right as you tin. The goal is to get as much of the ATF to be sitting near the drain bolt, which is at the back upper right corner of the pan.Step 2: Unclamp the intake duct to give yourself room to get to the fill up bolt.
Step 3: Put the torx and extensions together and brand your way to the make full plug and take it out. A magnet helps a lot property it from dropping into the engine bay.
Here is a flick of the drain bolt taken out. Hopefully this will help you locate it in the engine bay
Step four: Get under the car and remove the plastic undertray. Y'all should now exist in clear view of the drain plug, circled red in the picture. Get the pan under it, stick the Allen 5 key on it and unscrew information technology and let the ATF drain
Step 5: Once washed draining, stick the long finish of the Allen fundamental into the hole gently until it catches the stand pipe, unscrew it and have it out. Yous guessed it. The standpipe screws into the pan, then the bleed bolt screws in to close off the stand piping. Make sense? Careful, a bunch more ATF volition gush out. Important! Measure exactly how much ATF you lot got out. In my case, I got a total of ii.five quarts out. What comes out must become in, in order to maintain proper ATF level from mill. If you doubtable you lot have had a leak or want to make 100% sure you have the proper ATF level (which you should check), and then keep reading, this volition be addressed lastly. Put the stand pipage back in and screw the drain plug.
Here is a film of the drain bolt with the beat washer. After doing the final drain/fill, replace the beat washer for peace of mind and assurance you will not develop an ATF leak. Your dealer should stock it, if non the size in millimeters is 17X12X2.
Here is a flick of the Allen central and stand pipe. It is plastic. Exist gentle. Practice non cross-thread or overtorque. Handle with intendance, etc! Just go it approximately hand-tight when putting it back on, it'due south not like it's going anywhere.
Step half dozen: Time to make full her up! Take the funnel and shove it in the fill bolt and so rotate information technology about half turn. Make sure that when yous shove the funnel and twist, yous are not a total brute nigh it. If you happen to chew upwards the lip of the funnel, guess where those plastic $.25 are going to end upwardly!
Pour transmission fluid slowly into the funnel equally to not spill over. It drains into the transmission very slow, which is perfectly normal. The reason for this is that the bodily fill hole is only half open in order to accommodate a special dealer fill tool in gild to, you lot guessed it, brand it tough for anyone else to do this. Put the aforementioned quantity in that yous take taken out and yous should be at the same transmission level. However, I strongly encourage that in one case y'all are done with all your bleed/fills, you lot check the fluid level every bit per the procedure outlined beneath.
And that's about information technology! The total capacity is 6 quarts. I did 2 drain and fills and on the 2nd drain the ATF was still adequately night. The 2d bleed is what made the biggest difference in shifting for me. I can barely feel the gear engagements now. It is smooth sailing.
If yous want to get an idea what the ATF looked like at 70K miles versus new, here is a picture for reference. Speaks for itself.
How to measure the proper ATF level
This procedure is a LOT easier if you take OBD admission to the temp sensor inside the tranny and tin can accept a reading. If not, the directions beneath SHOULD work just fine. I know this is a wall of text simply really, there is no other way to say it without covering information technology. It'south non that hard when you figure out how the pan and the stand up pipe works.- The car needs to exist absolutely cold
- The car needs to exist perfectly level on the ground. The entire fluid level check process depends on this. Practice NOT overlook this.
- NEVER take the fill up bolt off with the car running! If y'all get-go the car with the fill bolt off, it will get-go puking ATF. I have learned this past staining my garage floor with three quarts of ATF which spilled out in a matter of seconds.
- Take the drain commodities off ONLY. Do Not take the stand up pipe out.
- If tranny fluid drains, let it bleed until it stops and continue to adjacent step
- Catch a kitchen thermometer or any other means to measure temperature
- Digital is best considering it offers instant reads
- Start the car. With your foot on brake, go R, N,D pausing at least ii seconds in each and then from D back to N, R and P.
- Get back nether the auto and sentry for when ATF starts to run out. Be ready with the thermometer
- As before long as you encounter ATF coming out, accept a temperature reading of the ATF (Not the pan) by letting the ATF run over the thermometer. ATF needs to be between 35*C and 45*C, which is 95-113*F.
- If you meet ATF coming out that's at that range, you're good to go. Put the drain bolt back on asap.
At present that you know this:
- if y'all meet ATF come out right away, it is overfilled
- if yous see NO ATF come up out afterwards the car has idled for a while, you can touch the transmission pan with the thermometer and see what temp it's at to get an idea if you've waited enough or non. Based on the temperature outside, basically subsequently about 5 to x minutes of idling, that ATF by all means should be at the temp quoted above. If it doesn't come out, you are low on fluid. Shut the motorcar off and you have 2 choices.
- You can warm upward the bottles of ATF fluid at 45*C/113*F under hot h2o in the sink and start filling the transmission until you see information technology start coming out the bleed commodities
- OR
- Wait until the car is common cold and so tiptop off with cold ATF similar in a higher place. Keep in mind this will probable get yous to overfill information technology only it should not be past a astringent amount AND you lot can always follow the previous steps to get it to bleed.
The question is ... what practise you practice if you lot Exercise see ATF start coming out. Exercise you let it keep draining until it stops? I submit that I would not do that, and I did not practise that because of fear of too much coming out. If it comes out gushing, you are Fashion overfilled. If it comes out in a thin drain, you're good, don't worry about information technology. Equally long as the temp is above 35*C/95*F but NOT over 45*C/113*F. you're OK to but put the bolt on and cease.
Helpful information and tips
This is a collection of posts by users that I believe are helpful, including supporting show indicating the type of OEM transmission fluid that Mini uses and what information technology can be replaced with. They are copied/pasted posts from the discussion on the forum. I recommend you read them.MiniKar:
For those that desire replacement parts become to: http://mini.sewellparts.com/oem-itemize/R53-2006.htmlFor our Aisin Warner machine-manual GA6F21WA hither are some OEM parts numbers:
- Pan drain bolt: Spiral plug # 24117570791
- Pan drain washer: Gasket ring # 24117570792
- Overflow pipe: # 24117551083
- Oil pan: # 24117551079
- Oil pan gasket # 24117566356 Oil strainer # 24347551087
For those that want to start all over:
OEM rebuilt transmission model # GA6F21WA, office # 24007548536 $6,450.35 Change that Transmission Fluid ! ! !I don't know of a JWS 3309 that is synthetic. After searching long and hard on the cyberspace, people accept offered various points of arguments that led to this:
- Mobil 1 3309 = Mini JWS 3309 = Volvo JWS 3309 = Toyota TIV ATF = whatever trannies built past AW
They are all dino, none are synthetic
The supplier of ATF in the Usa, I take gathered, is 1 and the aforementioned for the Aisin-Warner trannies and each manufacturer buys and labels the ATF to their ain needs. At the Toyota dealer the stuff is around $half dozen, the Mini dealer wants $30 a quart. Go effigy.BlimeyCabrio:
- 1st drain: 100% onetime fluid
- 2nd drain: ~58% old fluid
- 3rd drain: ~34% old fluid
The reason 1-2 and three are slammy is considering of the gear ratios and the type of load the engine sees. If you accelerate grandma-mode, you won't feel the shifts. There cannot be a significant difference betwixt Sport mode and normal because that would involve significantly higher line pressure, which isn't actually possible to do without some serious mods.
Mobil 1 ATF is superior to both OEM and 3309. It is synthetic and multi-vehicle, meaning it volition meet the specs of Mini.
To go on it short, 3309 is more than likely oem, which is more than than likely Toyota Blazon 4 ATF, Volvo OEM etc. Same fluid but the cost varies wildly depending on which dealership yous desire to rape you. I've washed exhaustive research on this topic considering I did not desire to adventure with my manual either.
Mobil 1 synthetic has worked great for numerous Minis including my own. As long as the bottle however says information technology meets 3309 spec you are gilt. Information technology used to say this on the quarts when I bought it, I no longer encounter information technology listed. Either way, the oem stuff is junk.
They define lifetime as the life of your warranty.
Mobil 1 ATF at to the lowest degree is guaranteed to concluding at least 50K miles nether the severe driving atmospheric condition which I would recollect a Mini applies for sure. With the OEM stuff, your guess is as good as mine, I would not utilise it more than than 30K miles. E'er.
Here'southward some nice proof, courtesy of Mazda, that the fluids are the same. Per Mazda message:
The 2005 Mazda6 with V6 engine and the half dozen-speed Automatic Transaxle (ATX) requires a special type of Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF).
The Aisin Warner produced 6-speed requires ATF type JWS3309 produced by Mobil and Exxon.
This new fluid is Not compatible with whatsoever current fluids offered by Mazda such equally Dexron Two/III, Mercon or Mercon five. Any mixing of JWS3309 fluid with Dexron II/Three, Mercon or Mercon 5 will cause internal ATX damage and/or shifting concerns, fifty-fifty if just topping off the ATF during PDI.At this time, JWS3309 ATF is not available through Mazda, just tin can be purchased from the post-obit sources using their fluid role numbers listed beneath:
MFG. Role Number
- Ford XT-8QAW
- Volvo Volvo 1161540
- Toyota T-4
- Mobil JWS 3309 GM GM 9986195
so i went to change my ATF today and noticed that I take a larger bleed plug in add-on to the smaller on on the pan. information technology is located correct nether where the axle shaft exits the tranny. I pulled that plug get-go and got out approx three quarts of fluid then pulled the smaller one on the pan and plastic riser tube and got out another quart for a grand total of 4 quarts! that part was piece of cake. the filling took forever as you all know that make full hole in tiny then equally that was filling I made myself useful and put new bushings in the lower engine mount. I never heard anyone mention this other larger bleed plug, my MCSa was built x/06 so not sure if something changed during that build menses???jimmycorn:
Found the beat out washer at NAPA for $1.39. It'due south a 12x17x1 whereas the original OEM is 12x17x2mm. In my moving-picture show to a higher place, the OEM is the summit silver ane, and the i I used is the 2nd copper one. I just stacked two of them and it seems to be holding fine...clutchless:
I found this alphabetic character from Valvoline on a BMW forum where they state it is compatible with Toyota TIV (which is our fluid), all the same since TIV is nearly $4 or $5 at a Toyota dealer, I wonder if Maxlife is any cheaper than the real thing? I used Mobil one Synthetic on mine."THOMAS R. SMITH Technical Manager, Valvoline Make July 1, 2005 To Whom It May Concern: Valvoline has received several inquiries regarding the topic of MaxLife ATF and its use in various vehicles beyond those requiring DEXRON®-III or MERCON® approved products. In response to these questions Valvoline has issued the following statements: Valvoline supports the use of MaxLife ATF in a broad range of transmissions beyond those requiring DEXRON 3 and MERCON fluids including those where the post-obit fluids are recommended:
- GM DEXRON Ii
- Ford MERCON Five
- Allison C-4
- Chrysler ATF+three or ATF+4 fluids"
- Toyota (and Lexus) Type T, T-III or T-4 fluids
- Mitsubishi Diamond SP-II or SP-Three fluids
- KIA SP-Ii and SPIII Fluids
- Hyundai
- Honda/Acura ATF-Z1 fluid (except in CVTs)
- BMW LT71141 or LA2634 fluids
- Nissan Matic-D, Matic-J, and Matic-Thousand fluids
- MB Sheet 236.x
- Volvo 1161521 and 1161540
- JWS 3309
- GM 9986195
- Audi M-052-025-A2
- VW TL52162
The system full has about half dozen quarts, requite or take. I'm likewise lazy to exercise the math only I am thinking yous're effectually lxxx%? I added a little flake of info in my previous post.Here is my math on 3 drains.
- So on first change, 3.5q original, 2.5q new (41.66% new)
- On second change, 2.5q fluid is drained, out of which 41.66 is old and 41.66 is new, remember the fluid has mixed. And so out of the 2.5 fresh quarts we initially put in, 1.041585 are actually fresh.
- Third change, you add together 2.5q of fresh fluid, so yous have a total of three.9585 of new fluid total in the arrangement.
- The final concentration is 3,9585*100/vi = 65,97% new, 34.03% old.
In my case, I started the car up with no make full plug attached, the motorcar puked a quarts of fluid before I shut information technology off so actually I put in half-dozen quarts fresh fluid
I still don't have 100% fresh fluid but I should exist darn close. Original Source
Written by: fishbone, Mar 3, 2012,Share This Article
How To Change The Transmission Fluid And Filter On A 2005 Cooper Mini Cvt Transmission,
Source: https://www.motoringalliance.com/articles/6-speed-automatic-transmission-fluid-change.52/
Posted by: reyesfewillic.blogspot.com
0 Response to "How To Change The Transmission Fluid And Filter On A 2005 Cooper Mini Cvt Transmission"
Post a Comment